Travel Journal 2020 - South Dakota

"Live life with no excuses, travel with no regret." - Oscar Wilde

Welcome to South Dakota

Featuring the Black Hills, Custer State Park, Wind Cave National Park, The Badlands, and many other points of interest, South Dakota was my primary focus on this summer road trip. I spent a full week in Rapid City, exploring all that the surrounding territory has to offer. 

I even took a fantastic day trip to Devil's Tower in Wyoming, which you read about here.

The biggest advice I have if you're planning to travel to western South Dakota: plan ahead!

There is so much to see and do! The national parks provide endless hiking and wildlife viewing opportunities, while some of the small towns in the area provide every tourist attraction one could possibly desire. It can actually be a bit overwhelming.

My experience began with some of the more tourist centric activities including Dinosaur Park, Bear Country, and Mt. Rushmore.

The Dinosaur Park at the top of a tall hill in downtown Rapid City is the definition of a tourist trap except for one key detail: it's free! The fact that it doesn't cost anything is the only reason I'm even mentioning it. The best part about the area is the view of the city and surrounding hills. Otherwise, it's pretty underwhelming. There are only several dinosaurs and they're all in pretty rough shape. I spent maybe five minutes at the site before moving on.

Bear Country was much more promising. Obviously the pictures above show just how close you can get to the wildlife. They are all free roaming, meaning you must stay in your car at all times (think Jurassic Park except without the caged paddocks). Even though it's called Bear Country, there was also elk, reindeer, arctic fox, mountain lion (the only one in a more secure caged area), and a small zoo-like area where smaller animals (like the bear cubs pictured above) were located. Clearly the main event was the bears, which didn't dissapoint. I spent just under two hours here and only spent $18 for admission. Not bad at all!

Mt. Rushmore is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the United States. Unfortunately, the visitor center and most of the ranger talks were unavailable still. There was a ranger talk I saw at the sculptor's studio, which was interesting. They also have a lighting ceremony, which attracts a large crowd. Unfortunately, it was canceled due to lightning in the area the night that I spent at the site.

There is a really nice hike that gets you closer to the monument, but the very end of the hike is blocked off due to some construction (don't worry. It doesn't change the experience at all). There are a lot of steps though. 

The site itself is impressive as you gaze upon the legendary figures sculpted into the side of a mountain. They each represent something great from American history.

From left to right on the monument:

• George Washington lead this country to independence by winning a seemingly unwinnable war. Then, inexplicably set the precedent of stepping down from power after two terms. He represents foundation.
• Thomas Jefferson was the primary writer of the words that would resonate throughout the colonies, declaring independence. As president, he would double the size of the country by way of the Louisiana Purchase. He represents expansion
• Theodore Roosevelt recognized the need to preserve the beauty and biodiversity of this great country by establishing the national parks. He was also able to begin the Panama Canal project, linking the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. He represents Preservation
• Abraham Lincoln came from humble beginnings to find himself leading the country through its most turbulent time. Despite the country being divided, he strived to keep the union together. He represents unification.

I certainly tried to reflect on these men and their accomplishments, wondering what America would be without them. 

The picture on the right is of Mt. Rushmore through the scope of the Doane Robinson Tunnel, which can be accessed by a remote part of highway 16A. It offers a unique view of the monument, but the drive to and through the tunnel is worth the long and twisting drive. The best time for this view through the tunnel is in the morning (not at sunset like I did). 

Another tourist favorite location that I visited was Deadwood, South Dakota. The city is about forty-five minutes north of Rapid City. It features an old west feel with many saloons and places to gamble. I engaged in a bit of gambling by participating in a small poker tournament at Saloon #10. Fret not, families are welcome, and Deadwood has some kid friendly activities as well!

As a kid, I was fascinated by dinosaurs and prehistoric times. South Dakota is famous for fossils and being a hot spot for prehistoric discoveries. I searched around trying to find an authentic experience that would satisfy that childhood interest. Luckily, I found the perfect place: Mammoth Site in Hot Springs, South Dakota!

Mammoth Site is an active research site with paleontologists working daily on studying and excavating the site. 

About 140,000 years ago (during the ice age) this site was actually a large sink hole that would lure ancient wildlife to their deaths. They would approach the edge of the sink hole to graze on grass or sip the rare source of water, then they'd slip on slick rock into the hole. The site was discovered in the 1970s and they've found over sixty mammoths in the hole so far! 

The above picture on the left shows an almost entire skeleton lying in the place it came to rest. The above picture on the right shows two large mammoth skulls. 

They have also found an ancient bear skull and many tiny aquatic fossils (South Dakota at different times over thousands of years was inundated by sea waters). They have excavated about twenty feet of the site, but estimate another forty to fifty feet is still yet to be uncovered! If you look in the upper right hand corner of the picture on the right, there is actually a worker taking notes. 

I spent over two hours here and highly recommend this wonderfully authentic snapshot of history. However, it can be a bit of a drive. It's about an hour south of Rapid City. I recommend pairing Mammoth Site with Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park, which are both just north of Hot Springs. 

Speaking of Custer State Park, here are two pictures from my hike. I completed the Lover's Leap trail, which is about a four mile loop. The elevation is pretty significant and makes this a moderately difficult trail. You also happen to cross the creek (pictured on the left) twelve times! I was also able to see two deer on the hike. 

Wind Cave National Park (just south of Custer State Park) features lots of prairie heavy hikes. Unfortunately, they are not doing ranger tours of the caves yet, but I was still able to do a very scenic trail (Rankin Ridge), which is a one mile loop. Before you drive up to the trail head, spend some time at the prairie dog town. As you drive north to Custer, there are several other prairie dog towns, as well as a high likelihood of crossing paths with a bison herd!

I was also able to spend a day in The Badlands National Park. This is definitely a separate day trip since the park is about an hour east of Rapid City. However, there is a more scenic alternative to the expressway that cuts through natural grasslands of South Dakota. 

I did three hikes in The Badlands. They were all close to where I entered the park, which was convenient. The convenience also meant an abundance of people also trying the hikes. 

The first hike was The Door Trail (pictured above). It's a simple hike (about 900m), which is why it was highly trafficked. Although it may be simple, don't go too far off trail. It can be a labyrinth with a significant lack of water. 

The second hike I did was significantly shorter (about 1/5 of a mile). The Window Trail is a short, mostly boardwalk, trail that comes to a point. At that point you can look out on the view pictured above. 

The third and final hike of my Badlands experience was the Notch Trail (about one mile roundtrip). A one mile hike doesn't seem very difficult, but there are some interesting aspects to this hike. The pictures above are of the ladder that you must climb in order to complete the trail. Left is going up, and right is going down (which is infinitely more difficult). 

At the top of the ladder, there is a very narrow path on the edge of a cliff (pictured above) that might scare some hikers if the ladder hadn't already accomplished that. Ultimately, you end up in a wonderful rocky canyon that overlooks the rest of The Badlands (pictured below). The trail allows you some flexibility in exploring the rocky landscape before heading down the ladder. Just be careful because the rocks are quite loose, causing footing to be very unsteady at times.

One of my favorite hikes on this trip for sure! Be brave and attempt this fun and exhilarating hike!

Just like in North Dakota, I wanted to get in a round of golf. The Golf Club at Red Rock is one of the better courses in the state, featuring a forested setting. The pictures above are just two of the outstanding views that I had while waiting to hit from the tee box. I was quite lucky to get this round in since I was dodging rain drops almost the whole week.

Lastly, I wanted to give a shout out to Sioux Falls, South Dakota, which is where I entered and exited the state. I spent two nights in this city, bookending my time in South Dakota. Pictured above are the falls of Sioux Falls. They're located in Falls Park, which offers a lovely place for a brief hike and an outdoor lunch in their café.

Overall, South Dakota has an endless amount of entertainment options for the traveler. There will be crowds at many of the popular destinations. Just come prepared and you'll leave South Dakota with no regrets.




Check out my other travel posts:

North Dakota

Nebraska and Iowa

Singapore

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